Dyes in History and Archaeology 36

26-28 October 2017

Hosted by the Royal School of Needlework
at Hampton Court Palace, London UK
Presenters of oral papers are invited to submit texts for publication.
Hampton Court Palace

Publication of Oral Papers

Presenters of oral papers at DHA36 have been invited to submit their texts for publication in the peer-reviewed journal Dyes in History and Archaeology (Archetype Publications).

DHA36 papers will be combined in one volume with papers from DHA35. DHA35 was held in October 2016 in Pisa.

file_downloadDownload DHA guidelines for authors

Additional guidelines from Archetype Publications with requirements for illustrations and helpful points on house style:

file_downloadDownload Archetype Publications House Style guidelines

Welcome to all interested in research into colour

The Royal School of Needlework welcomes you to its home at Hampton Court Palace in west London for this year’s Dyes in History and Archaeology.

We will be holding the main conference in the Clore Learning Centre which means we have a maximum of 100 places, so early booking is advised.

On the additional pages you can find details for Abstracts, the Registration form, information about accommodation, the Gala Dinner and the very special visit on the Saturday.

Registrations deadline 8 September 2017.


event_noteProgramme of Events - 25-28 October 2017
file_downloadDownload programme
Wednesday 25 October
5.00 – 7.30 Welcome reception in the teaching rooms of the Royal School of Needlework at Hampton Court Palace.
Thursday 26 October
9:30Arrivals at the Clore Centre, Hampton Court Palace
9:45Welcome – Representative of Historic Royal Palaces and Susan Kay-Williams
10:00 – 11:20Session 1 - Chair: Susan Kay-Williams
10:00 – 10:20Vincent Daniels - Revealing the Nature of the Madder Vat
10:20 – 10:40Monika Ganeczko - Coloring secrets of vat dyes
10:40 – 11:00Anete Karlsone - The tradition of Natural Dyeing in Latvia
11:00 – 11:20Questions
11:20 – 11.40Coffee
11:40 – 13:00Session 2 - Chair: Dominique Cardon
11:40 – 12:00Yoshiko Sasaki - Research on indexing of deterioration state for cultural textiles by fluorescence lifetime measurement
12:00 – 12:20Diego Tamburini - An investigation of the dye palette and fibre degradation in the 8th century Chinese embroidery ‘Sakyamuni Preaching on Vulture Peak’
12:20 – 12:40Chika Mori - Preliminary study of yellow compounds in two Malus species in Japan
12:40 – 13:00Questions
13:00 – 14:00Lunch
14:00 – 15:20Session 3 - Chair: Anita Quye
14:00 – 14:20Monica Gulmini - The dyes of the “Coptic” textiles at the Museo Egizio in Torino (Italy)
14:20 – 14:40Regina Hofmann-de Keijzer - Textile dyeing in Late Antique Egypt – sources, analysis and interpretation
14:40 – 15:00Victor Chen - A Survey of Dyes on Baluchi Carpets from the Boucher Collection of the Indianapolis Museum of Art
15:00 – 15:20Questions
15:20 – 15:40Tea/coffee
15:40 – 17:00Session 4 - Chair: Richard Laursen
15:40 – 16:00Ana Serrano - A time capsule at the bottom of the sea: A material study of 17th-century textiles found in the Wadden Sea
16:00 – 16:20Maj Ringgaard - Dye migration in archaeological textiles - an experiment
16:20 – 16:40Mohammad Shahid - Turkey red: History, Mystery and Chemistry
16:40 – 17:00Questions
Visits to the RSN Studio and Embellishment in Fashion exhibition and/or RSN Collection and Archive and/or HRP Conservation
19:30Conference dinner at the Mitre.
Friday 27 October
9.00Arrivals at the Clore Centre Hampton Court Palace
9:30 – 10:50Session 5 - Chair: Zvi Koren
09:30 – 09:50Anita Quye - The Crutchley Archive of early eighteenth century pattern books and dyeing manuals: colour investigations for historical significance and preservation needs
09:50 – 10:10Vanessa Habib - Examining the Milton printfield manuscripts: Edward Bancroft - a Scottish connection?
10:10 – 10:30Isabella Whitworth - Wood and Bedford / Yorkshire Dyeware and Chemical Company Archives
10:30 – 10:50Questions
10:50 – 11.10Coffee
11:10 – 12:30Session 6 - Chair: Maarten van Bommel
11:10 – 11:30Matthijs de Keijzer - Cornelis Drebbel’s Scarlet
11:30 – 11:50Terry Schaeffer - Treading on Lichen: The use of Cudbear by a Victorian Carpet Manufacturer
11:50 – 12:10Maurizio Aceto - It’s only a part of the story: an investigation into the dyes used on the Privilegium maius
12:10 – 12:30Questions
12:30 – 13:30Lunch
13:30 – 14:50Session 7 - Chair: Ilaria Degano
13:30 – 13:50Richard Blackburn - Natural dyes in madder (Rubia spp.) and the latest developments in their extraction and analysis in historical textiles
13:50 – 14:10Marei Hacke - Mapping mordants in Paracas textiles
14:10 – 14:30Maria Melo - The dark-side of polyphenols in medieval manuscripts: a study on iron gall inks
14:30 – 14:50Questions
14:50 – 15:10Tea/coffee
15:10 – 16:30Session 8 - Chair: Jo Kirby Atkinson
15:10 – 15:30Marc Holly - Interaction of paper and early synthetic dyes on textile sample books
15:30 – 15:50Francesca Sabatini - Investigating the degradation pathway of xanthene dyes in textiles
15:50 – 16:10Ilaria Serafini - Synthetic dyes of the 1980s: a new multi-analytical approach to the isolation and identification of ACNA wool dyes
16:10 – 16:30Questions
16:30Closing remarks Jo Kirby Atkinson
Saturday 28
Visit to Dennis Severs’ house and Spitalfields and a full afternoon at the Warner Textile Archive.

On Thursday, between the conference and dinner for those staying outside Hampton Court there will be the opportunity to visit the RSN Studio and current exhibition of embellishment in historical fashion.

There will also be the opportunity to visit Historic Royal Palaces’ Collection Conservation Centre based here at Hampton Court Palace.

assignmentPoster Presentations
file_downloadDownload poster presentations list
Arca Determination of the distinguishing characteristics of Italian and Ottoman velvets
Özkan Dye analysis of wool fabrics by using HPLC-DAD
Degano Mass spectrometric analysis of arylcarbonium blue, violet and green dyes: unlocking structural differences though data mining
Lafuente Developing a protocol using FORS for the selection and study of historical textiles in the Victoria and Albert Museum
Kramell Analysis of natural dyes in historic textiles using Flowprobe™-ESI-HRMS
Yeo Developing Black color by Natural Dyeing for Contemporary Fashion
Jung Use of Natural Colorants Mixture for Hair dyeing
Jung Benzopyran Natural Colorants for Black Hair dyeing via Metal Chelation
Otlowska HPLC-DAD-MS analysis of 19th century artistic paints belonged to a famous Polish painter, Jan Matejko.
Witkowski Dye analysis of medieval Nubian textiles (Sudan, 13th c.)
Melo In search of "lost yellows": identification and occurrence of ancient polyphenol yellows in Portuguese plants
Sharif "Persian yellows": A survey of Iranian literature
Békési-Gardánfalv Identification of organic dyes in the assemblage of women’s garments from the early17th century discovered at the Benedictine Church of Sopron
Shin Preparation of Biocatalyst for Indigo Reduction and Its Application
Laursen A Dyestuff Database for the Analysis of Natural Dyes in Textiles
Orlińska-Mianowska Cloister gardens. Dyes used in embroidered hangings from the Church of the Benedictine Nuns of the Blessed Sacrament in Lviv
Petroviciu Some more dye analysis on 19th-20th century Romanian ethnographical textiles
Quye Dye analysis of textile patterns for aniline colours in nineteenth century British dyeing manuals by UHPLC-PDA and LC-ESI MS
Ziderman Two Millennia of Controversy Characterising the Biblical Purples Tekhelet and Argaman
Wheeler The Use of Organic Dyes in Indian and Himalayan Paintings on Paper and Cloth
Koren Fifty Shades of Purple
Özkan Characterisation of an Ottoman Sevayi Fabric by using HPLC-DAD AND FESEM- EDX


trainGetting to Hampton Court Palace

The easiest way is by public transport. Hampton Court is served by a direct train starting from Waterloo at 06 and 36 minutes past the hour, arriving at Hampton Court station at 42 and 12 minutes past the hour respectively.

This train also stops at Vauxhall, Clapham Junction, Wimbledon and Surbiton for those making connections. For example, if linked to the tube it can be easier to take the Victoria line to Vauxhall or the District line to Wimbledon and catch the trains there (10 and 40 mins past the hour at Vauxhall and 22 and 52 mins past the hour at Wimbledon, at both stations from platform 8).

flightTravelling to the UK by air

It is possible to get to Hampton Court from all the London airports but if you have a choice the easiest is probably Gatwick. From Gatwick you can take a train to Clapham Junction which are fairly frequent and then take the train from Clapham Junction to Hampton Court (platform 11 at 15 and 45 mins past the hour). If you are staying at Kingston and want to drop off luggage first then from the same platform at Clapham Junction take the train to Shepperton which stops at Kingston and Hampton Wick. The Shepperton train is 28 and 58 mins past the hour.

Heathrow is technically the nearest airport but the local journey is tortuous by public transport (the 111 bus goes from Heathrow right past the door of Hampton Court and on to Kingston but it can take two hours on a bad day due to traffic). If there are a couple of you it is probably easiest to pre-book a local taxi. The number is +44 (0) 20 3475 4699. This is cheaper than picking up a taxi at the airport. When booking your cab ensure you know which terminal you are coming in to.

directions_busUsing local buses

If you are staying in Kingston then the easiest way to get to Hampton Court is the local buses. The 111, 411 and 216 pass the gates. On these buses automated voices shout out the names of the stop and it is displayed on the interior. The stop you want is called Hampton Court Palace Gardens.

To get to the conference rooms go through Adam Gate, the large gate just in front of you as you get off the bus. Walk straight until you come to the end of narrow part. (You are virtually at the Palace). Turn to your right and go back through the ivy covered arch, turn left walking across the front of the car park until you come to a building on the right hand side, that is where we will be. It is less than a five minute walk from the bus stop.


The nearest hotel to Hampton Court Palace is The Mitre which is just opposite the Palace gates. They have given us an offer but they cannot accommodate everyone. Details are below.

The nearest town is Kingston which is a short bus ride away (Buses 111, 411 and 216 go past the gates).

Please make all bookings direct with the hotels. In addition to those listed here there are a number of others accessible by hotel online services and there are airbnb locations too.

hotelHotels at Hampton Court
The Mitre

£129.00 B&B for the Traditional Room, £139.00 B&B for the Deluxe Room and £159.00 B&B for the Exclusive Room.

Guests can phone the hotel on +44 (0) 208 979 9988 to make the room booking.


hotelHotels in Kingston

Kingston has a Hilton Double Tree and Premier Inn

hotelHotels in Surbiton

Probably a 15 min walk from Surbiton Station, itself less than a ten minute train journey from Hampton Court, in different directions are the Hotel Antoinette and the Holiday Inn Kingston South (trains from Surbiton are 04 and 34 mins past the hour).

Hotel Antoinette, Surbiton

Single Rooms at £60.00 per night
Double/Twin Rooms at £67.00 per night
Courtyard Rooms at £77.00 per night
These rates are inclusive of Full English Breakfast, VAT, and on site parking. Rooms have television, hospitality tray, hairdryer, direct dial telephone, free wi-fi access, and well appointed bathroom. Other facilities include a 24 hour front desk, café lounge, Hampton Restaurant and bar.

Holiday Inn Kingston South, Surbiton

Bedrooms: Standard Double rooms
Rate: £119.00 per room per night
Inclusions: VAT, English Breakfast and WIFI
Release period: All the unsold / unbooked rooms will be released 30 Days prior to arrival
Cancellation policy: Before 4.p.m on the day or arrival
Every booking will have to be supported with valid Credit Card Details as a guarantee. Book directly with the hotel website hikingston.co.uk

Other sources of hotels can be found at a number of the stations on the route from Waterloo to Hampton Court. There are Travelodges at Waterloo, Vauxhall, Clapham Junction and Raynes Park.


Guidelines for ABSTRACTS

file_downloadDownload Abstract Template


Conference dinner - Thursday 26 October 7.30pm

The dinner will take place at The Mitre opposite Hampton Court Palace in the Pavilion Suite with views over the River Thames.

The dinner is at 7.30 but for those with accommodation away from Hampton Court there will be an optional tour of the RSN’s Studio and its latest exhibition of embellishment in (historical) fashion.

At the Mitre we will be greeted with a glass of Prosecco, followed by a three-course meal (choices will be sent nearer the time) and a glass of wine or soft drink with the meal. (Further drinks may be bought).

Cost £45


Visit to Spitalfields - Saturday 28 October

We are going to visit one of London’s most historic districts, Spitalfields and while there visit one of the world’s most unusual places: the Dennis Severs house. Following this there will be time for a short walk around the area passing some of the Silk Weaver’s houses including designer Anna Maria Gawthorpe’s before catching the train to Braintree, the home of the Warner Textile company and their amazing archive where we will have a two hour opportunity to visit and explore the archive, beginning with an introduction but allowing us time to explore by ourselves.

We will have a packed lunch on the train and tea and cakes at Warners.

Cost £64. Only additional cost is getting from your accommodation to Liverpool Street.

About Dennis Severs’ house

Dennis Severs, an artist who used his visitors’ imaginations as his canvas lived in the house in much the same way as its original occupants might have done in the early 18th Century. This he did for his own personal enjoyment as well as for the harvest of an atmosphere, which he then employed to provide the visitor with an extraordinary experience. To enter its door is to pass through a frame into a painting, one with a time and life of its own.

The game is that you interrupt a family of Huguenot silk weavers named Jervis who, though they can still sometimes be heard, seem always to be just out of sight. As you journey off into a silent search through the ten rooms, each lit by fire and candlelight, you receive a number of stimulations to your senses.

It is the smell of food that first aligns your imagination with the faces around you in portraits. Then Mr. Jervis’ wig, is it not the very same one that hangs over the back of his chair? His meal is only half eaten; did he abandon it when he heard us arrive?

Visitors begin to do what they might if indeed they had travelled through a frame into a painting: use what they sense to piece together the scene they had missed. Thus, and this was Mr Severs’ intention, what you imagine… is his art.

It’s fun and now after almost thirty five years the experience ranks as one of the rarest in the world. David Hockney once rated its effect as standing amongst those of the world’s great opera experiences. Mr Severs spent a lifetime peering past sitters in paintings in search of the light and moods that lie in the air of Other Times. Sharing what he found and created here is what a visit to the house is all about. A rare thing to experience first hand: the warm, smoky light captured by the Old Masters; the creak of footsteps on wood; whispers and opening doors; arresting reflections, mixtures, textures and smells; the ticking and chiming of clocks; a cat and a canary

The experience is conducted in silence. Its level is poetic and unlike anything, so works best on those who are endowed, willing and able to meet it halfway. The house’s motto is “you either see it, or you don’t”. Post-materialist, it seeks to remind the visitor of one thing: what we cannot see is essential to what we do.

Be warned, it is a mistake to trivialise or pigeonhole the experience into any of the mothball camps: “heritage”, “local history”, “antiques”, “lifestyle” or “museum”. A visit requires the same style of concentration as does an exhibition of Old Masters.

Dennis Severs called his unique spectators sport “still-life drama”, and his goal was to provide his visitors with a rare moment in which to become as lost in another time as they appear to be in their own. He proved that the formula amounts to the same in any time, that getting caught up in it all is what we call “now”.

Warner Textile Archive

The Warner Textile Archive is a rich design resource documenting the successes and innovation of Warner & Sons from the late 1800s. The Collection comprises stunning textiles and inspirational paper designs, as well as original printing blocks, photographs and other documentary material.

The Kingley Package

If you’re looking for exclusivity then this is the package for you. Gain access to the Warner Textile Archive store where over 100,000 items are carefully archived including over 60,000 textiles and 10,000 paper designs. Enjoy a talk on Warner & Sons whilst you are shown some of the fantastic collection in our care. After your private visit to the store you will have time to browse the Archive Gallery, discovering more of the collection and its rich history.